PRP, Exosomes, PDRN and More

For years, aesthetics meant correction: fill the hollow, smooth the line, tighten what’s sagged. Regenerative medicine flips that script. Instead of forcing skin into submission, these treatments work with the body’s own repair mechanisms, helping tissue function better—not just look fuller.

What’s driving the shift isn’t a single breakthrough, but a suite of biologically active ingredients delivered through in-office treatments and medical-grade skin-care actives. Each plays a distinct role, and knowing the difference matters. Ahead, we’re breaking down what that looks like.

Featured Experts

• Sue Ellen Cox, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in Chapel Hill, NC 
• Skylar Souyoul, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in Shreveport, LA
• Tess Mauricio, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in San Diego
• Elaine Kung, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in New York
• Raman Mahabir, MD is a board-certified plastic surgeon in Tucson, AZ

PRP and PRF

Platelet-rich plasma (PRP) and platelet-rich fibrin (PRF) are often lumped together, but they’re not the same. Both are derived from your own blood and support collagen production and healing—the key difference lies in how they’re processed.

“PRP is spun at a higher speed, which separates more of the blood components,” explains Chapel Hill, NC dermatologist Sue Ellen Cox, MD. “PRF is spun more slowly.”

That distinction matters clinically. PRP remains the more established option, especially for hair loss. “For hair restoration, PRP is the preferred option because it has been more extensively researched and shown to stimulate hair follicles and support regrowth,” Dr. Cox says.

Still, these treatments rarely shine on their own. “I encourage patients to combine PRP with laser treatments or microneedling to reap the benefits of faster recovery and enhanced collagen stimulation,” Dr. Cox notes. “While PRP can be used on its own, combining it often leads to more noticeable results.”

Which brings up an important reality check. “One of the biggest misconceptions I see is the hype around using PRP or PRF under the eyes,” Dr. Cox adds. “Results are subtle, often require multiple sessions and need very realistic expectations.”

Exosomes

Often described as the next step in regenerative care, exosomes are prized for their ability to communicate—not correct. Rather than adding volume or resurfacing skin, exosomes act as messengers that signal the body’s own repair processes.

“When you talk about exosomes, you’re really looking at sending the signals to help tell your body to make more collagen and elastin and do those anti-aging activities,” says Shreveport, LA dermatologist Skylar Souyoul, MD. “They’re giving the signals.”

That signaling role is what sets exosomes apart. “Exosomes are giving the instructions,” she explains. While other approaches may provide structure or building blocks, exosomes guide the process itself.

In practice, that often means combination treatments. “My number-one in-office procedure right now is microneedling with exosomes,” Dr. Souyoul says. “It’s my go-to for pigmentation and melasma, and because it’s not heat-based, it’s safe for all skin types.”

Secretomes

If exosomes are messengers, secretomes are the full message. A secretome refers to everything a cell releases, including proteins, growth factors and signaling molecules that work together to guide repair.

That breadth is what’s driving growing interest in anti-aging and hair care. Rather than targeting a single pathway, secretomes support multiple processes at once, from collagen production to inflammation control and cell turnover. This approach is showing up both in the clinic and in skin care, with some medical-grade brands translating the science into topical formats.

“What’s exciting is that we can now collect a patient’s own stem cells from their hair follicles and create autologous secretomes,” says San Diego dermatologist Tess Mauricio, MD. “Because they’re derived from the hair follicle itself, they’re highly specific.” She notes they’re often layered with exosomes and PRP, with encouraging results in hair regeneration.

Most cosmetic secretomes are derived from cultured stem cells, whether plant-based or sourced from human tissue. The cells themselves aren’t used—only the compounds they release. In practice, secretomes are most commonly found in serums and are often applied after treatments like microneedling, when skin is primed to absorb them.

Polynucleotides (PDRN)

Often referred to as salmon sperm, polynucleotides—also known as PDRN—have surged in popularity for their role in skin repair and texture improvement. In the U.S., they’re currently used topically or as an adjunct to treatments that temporarily disrupt the skin barrier, such as microneedling or lasers.

“Salmon sperm facials really mean that a PDRN serum is being used alongside another procedure,” explains New York dermatologist Elaine Kung, MD. “Those treatments help with penetration and allow the ingredient to actually do its job.”

The result is often described as a glass skin–like effect. “We’re thinking about better skin texture, hydration and a healthy glow,” she says. “It’s not about dramatic change. It’s about improving how the skin functions.”

Nanofat and Microfat

Fat transfer has long been associated with restoring volume, but newer processing techniques have expanded its role beyond shape alone. When fat is refined into microfat or nanofat, the focus shifts from filling to regeneration.

“Using one system, we can create fat for grafting, microfat for delicate areas and nanofat for skin quality,” explains Tucson, AZ plastic surgeon Raman Mahabir, MD, who prepares nanofat using the Lipocube system. “Nanofat isn’t about volume. It’s about what’s inside the fat cells, including growth factors and regenerative components.”

In practice, nanofat is often paired with microneedling or used to support healing after surgery. Rather than changing facial structure, the emphasis is on improving skin quality and encouraging recovery from within—part of a broader shift in aesthetics toward working with the body, not overriding it.