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The Skin-Protecting Ingredient You Need in Your Routine

There always seems to be some hot new skin-care ingredient demanding attention. With the current focus on the skin barrier and protecting against oxidative stress, it makes sense that a powerful antioxidant like pycnogenol is emerging in the spotlight. We know the word looks intimidating, so we asked experts what exactly it is and what benefits it can provide to the skin when used topically or as a supplement.

Featured Experts

  • Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist
  • Dr. Bushra Yusuf is the associate manager of scientific communications at Deciem
  • Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu are cosmetic chemists and founders of Chemist Confessions
  • Dr. Franziska Weichmann is the manager of scientific communications and product development at Horphag Research

What is pycnogenol?

Pycnogenol is an extract derived from the bark of the French Maritime pine tree that grows along the coast of southwest France, cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos tells us. Manager of scientific communications at Deciem, Dr. Bushra Yusuf, says the pine bark extract contains a range of molecules that offer significant antioxidant support. It’s a deep, rich red color due to the high procyanidin antioxidant content, she notes.

“This powerful, all-natural antioxidant contains a unique combination of procyanidins, bioflavonoids and phenolic acids, which offer extensive natural health benefits,” says manager of scientific communications and product development at Horphag Research (the original developer and worldwide supplier of pycnogenol), Dr. Franziska Weichmann. Pine bark extract is becoming increasingly popular in skin care, but cosmetic chemists Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu note that much of its “fame and volume of research really comes from using it as an oral supplement.”

The benefits of pycnogenol in skin care

One of the biggest benefits of pycnogenol as a topical is its ability to “help neutralize free radicals that can damage skin cells and accelerate aging,” says Dobos. “The blend of bioactive compounds help soothe skin to reduce visible redness and protects against environmental skin irritants,” says Dr. Yusuf, who notes that it can also help boost skin’s moisture levels. Additionally, pycnogenol is known to support the antioxidant activity of ascorbic acid, making the formula an ideal accompaniment to regimens that already incorporate vitamin C, notes Dr. Yusuf.

The benefits of pycnogenol as a supplement

“While both topical products and oral skin-care supplements can help to improve skin health and appearance, pycnogenol’s benefit for skin care has been proven particularly strong with oral supplementation, as the benefits reach the dermis, or inner layer of the skin, of the entire body, fostering healthy skin from the inside out,” says Dr. Weichmann.

Pycnogenol supplements can help even out skin tone by modulating melanin production, says Dr. Weichmann. “Oral pycnogenol has been shown to reduce hyperpigmentation and brighten overall complexion,” she notes. “It also helps keep skin hydrated and resilient by stimulating hyaluronic acid production within the skin,” adds Dr. Weichmann. Plus, it “protects collagen and elastin,” says Dr. Weichmann, pointing to a study that shows that a woman taking pycnogenol experienced a 25 percent boost in skin elasticity in 12 weeks. “It is key in helping stimulate collagen production, along with preventing and treating wrinkles after they’ve already formed.”

New research suggests that pycnogenol supplements also have the ability to reduce the appearance cellulite. “This underscores the breadth of its impact on skin appearance and health and its unique functionality to support beauty from the inside out as both a topical and an ingestible product.”

Pycnogenol products to try

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All of the experts we talked to recommended The Ordinary’s pycnogenol product. Dobos calls it “a good, no-nonsense formula,” noting it has just two ingredients. Fu and Lu like the product’s price point and transparency in concentration. This serum incorporates a proprietary extract made exclusively from French maritime pine bark to target dullness, dehydration and provide antioxidant support,” says Dr. Yusuf. “This vibrant serum protects, soothes and hydrates skin while reinforcing the skin barrier in four hours.”

The Ordinary Pycnogenol 5%

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Dr. Weichmann says these 100 mg pycnogenol pills are a great option for an oral supplement of the ingredient to reap the benefits. Be sure to discuss any new supplements with your doctor before adding them to your routine.

Healthy Origins Pycnogenol

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This is another topical product worth trying, says Dr. Weichmann. Packed with collagen, peptides and pycnogenol, this night cream helps boost elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Derma E Advanced Peptides & Flora-Collagen Night Moisturizer

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